This trip took place when we were working in Yosemite Valley (June 2018).
As a part of our goal to hike every trail immediately surrounding Yosemite Valley during our month residency, we decided that the North Rim of the Valley was best attacked as one backpacking trip rather than having to hike in and out of the valley multiple times.
We told our friend Meredith, the Volunteer Ranger Camp Host about our plan of hitchhiking over to Old Big Oak Flats Trailhead after taking a 45 minute shuttle bus ride – all this after our morning shift at work, and she kindly volunteered to drive us all the way to the trailhead. We are still eternally grateful for the ride.
Along the way we saw amazing views that we had been missing out on because of our lack of motorized transportation during our stay in the famous valley, including Bridle-veil Falls and the Great Central Valley.
Once we got to the trail we found ourselves in a recent burn area. The trail was lined with beautiful purple lupine flowers (which are nitrogen fixers) as a result. Despite the lack of living trees, the area had plenty of streams for us to fill our bottles in.
We spent a number of hours trying to hike as far as possible into the evening and got to Ribbon Meadows where we were treated to a display of shooting star and white buttercup flowers and surprisingly few mosquitos.
After passing through the meadow we set up camp a few hundred feet off the trail up on a hill after passing a pretty large pile of bear scat/poop. We went to sleep wearily. John didn’t wear his earplugs so that he could hear the bear if it entered the area.
After waking up a to a loud cracking noise, John wandered around to see if a bear was nearby. Finding no animal in sight, he went to check on the bear canister (for food storage) and found it undisturbed. Trying to find the tent in the dark, he spent the next 20 minutes stumbling around looking for it.
We woke up in the morning with no further incidents. When we got to the first water source of the day, we met Kenny and Andy who were from Maryland and on the same trip as us.
We went our separate ways and headed up to our first viewpoint of the Yosemite Valley, KP Peak which is actually on top of the famous rock face El Capitan.
On the top John couldn’t help but notice a sleeping bag barely hiding under a couple rocks. He decided that because of the short length of the trip, his pack was empty enough to carry this cheap Coleman Brand sleeping bag for the rest of the trip. After stuffing it in his Mariposa backpack, his pack was still not completely full.
On the way back to the trail from the view point we saw the guys from Maryland again. They weren’t kidding when they said they were going on the same exact same trip as us.
Moving on we walked a little further to the next viewpoint: Eagle Peak. Eagle peak had the best view we saw in the whole park! Again we saw Kenny and Andy and we decided that we would walk with them and chat along the way.
Further up the trail we went to the top of Yosemite Falls. For those of you wishing to peer directly off a 2,500 foot cliff, there is a railing so you can do exactly that! It certainly is an interesting way to look at the tallest waterfall in North America.
We continued down the trail towards Indian Canyon and soon found ourselves well off the trail. We were able to figure out where we were pretty easily using map and compass because of the open landscape and traveled cross country to the trail further along.
Next we went to North Dome where we had an amazing view of Half Dome.
Afterwards we went up to the natural arch above the Dome which was also an incredible sight to see. One of very few natural arches I’ve seen in my life.
Finally after 16 miles, we settled in at a campsite well off the trail near Snow Creek an area with a known “problem bear”. After we setup the tent we noticed a pile of bear scat within 15 feet of our tent. We were really tired so went to sleep around 7pm and within an hour we heard something that sounded like artificial noises. I got up and looked around and noticed (since it was still light out) that there was a bear about 100 feet away from us. I tried my best to scare it away by making a lot of noise and it wandered away slowly its legs bow legged. It certainly wasn’t in a hurry to get away and looked like and old tired bear. It look us a while to fall back asleep.
We woke up the next morning without incident and headed down Snow Creek Trail a long steep downhill. By the time we got to the bottom we felt the extreme heat of the valley before heading off to work again.